Jetsettersblog

Pocket-sized koalas, wombats the size of cows and an ancient gorge fringed by rainforest are just waiting to be discovered in Queensland’s very own Outback oasis, writes Jessica Reid.

Three hundred and ten kilometres and we didn’t so much as pass a petrol station; three cars, two wedge tail eagles, thousands of termite mounds standing like tombstones, an emu, a roadside cattle muster and a couple of kangaroos, yes, but otherwise it was just us and the wide expanse of Queensland’s Outback.

We were on our way to two hidden gems in this remote part of the State’s far north-west – Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park and the World Heritage-listed Riversleigh Fossil Fields, which are both, as we found, well worth the drive.

If you don’t have a 4WD, the best way to see these spectacular landmarks is on one of Dell Burgen’s three day/two night Yididi Aboriginal Guided Tours which depart Mount Isa every Tuesday and Friday.

After driving such a long way through flat savannah land, we were nearly at the Queensland/Northern Territory border and I must admit I had started to doubt the legend of Lawn Hill’s greenness and grandeur.

Yet almost out of nowhere we were suddenly at the gorge’s entrance and before long were silently canoeing carefully through the waterlilies and striking scenery.

Steep ochre cliffs guide the permanent fresh water gorge along a winding path fringed with thriving green trees, ferns and scrubs. About 1km into the gorge we tied off our canoes and dived into the fresh water.

I was quickly drawn to the nearby tiny waterfalls and well-placed rocks which created my own mini Outback spa, while the fishermen, hikers and bird watchers in our group were also well catered for in this incredible spot flourishing with flora and fauna.

The afternoon quickly slipped by before we headed back to the area’s only accommodation at Adel’s Grove, which lies just downstream from the gorge’s main entrance.

Adel’s Grove began humbly as an experimental Botanical Garden in 1920 created by Albert de Lestang (hence the name “Adel” derived from Albert’s initials).

By 1939, Albert had planted more than 1,000 species of exotic and native plants, shrubs and trees, but in the early 1950s disaster struck when a fire swept through the grove and destroyed almost everything in its path including Albert’s dwelling and trunk containing all of his research papers.

The current owner managers of Adel’s Grove, Rod and Michelle Low Mow have been running the property since 2001 and have made quite a few changes since they took charge. The site now offers a bar and restaurant, 17 permanently-erected tents (complete with bedding, bedside table, deck and outdoor setting), 15 cabins and 53 designated tent sites, which according to the Low Mows are all booked out months in advance during the peak season of June to September.

“I’m always asked if I feel isolated out here, but with so many people coming through, it’s often a case of me wanting to get away from everyone,” laughed Rod.

Both Michelle and Rod were born and bred in Brisbane, but met while working in Mount Isa as teenagers.

“We set off to travel around Australia, but didn’t get much further than here!” said Rod.

While Michelle runs the restaurant and day to day operation of the property, Rod takes daily trips to one of the area’s other highlights – the Riversleigh Fossil Fields.

“Since 1967, scientists have increased Australia’s known creatures by more than 1,000 from this site alone,” he said.

“Wombats the size of cows, flesh-eating kangaroos, three metre tall flightless birds, pocket-sized and giant koalas, and 13 different species of crocodiles are just some of the creatures they have discovered to be roaming the land where you are standing up to 25 million years ago.

“This land used to be a lush rainforest and lake and I guarantee you that under nearly every bit of rock out there you will find a bit of bone which has been preserved in limestone,” Rod said.

Granted World Heritage listing in 1994 for its outstanding representation of the evolution of Australian mammals and the quality of its fossils, Riversleigh Fossil Fields covers a 10,000ha area, with ‘D-Site’ the only section open to the public.

Before or after seeing the real thing it’s highly recommended that visitors pop into the Riversleigh Fossil Centre in Mount Isa for an extensive insight into the region as it was millions of years ago, and into the process of fossilisation.

Here we watched a palaeontologist at work and saw a number of fossils and life-size replicas of some of the ancient animals which once inhabited Australian soil.

The Riversleigh Fossil Centre is located in the Outback at Isa complex which is also home to the famous ‘Hard Times Mine’, which was built and operated by real miners and today provides the opportunity to experience first hand the daily life and workings of an underground mine.

After donning bright orange overalls and hard hats with lamps, we descended 30 metres into the mine and began exploring the rabbit warren of underground tunnels and pathways. Our passionate guide explained the history and evolution of mining, showing us both past and present equipment and even let each of us try the Air Leg Drill.

Other highlights in Mount Isa include a visit to Arilla Paper, the indigenous paper-making company that uses everything from mango leaves to cow poo to make paper, and of course the Mount Isa School of the Air whose students live up to 500km away and come to ‘class’ over the radio. Tours of the school operate each weekday during the school term at 10am.

And while there aren’t any pocket-sized koalas and gigantic wombats roaming outside the classroom window, there’s certainly enough history and heritage in this stunning part of the world to make you feel like you’ve gone back in time and back to nature.

If you go:
Accommodation and holiday ideas: www.outbackholidays.info
Adel’s Grove: www.adelsgrove.com.au
Getting there: Qantas flies direct to Mount Isa from Brisbane